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A Vancouver Visit |
| Surrounded by water on three sides, the
Downtown Vancouver peninsula
of Canada's third largest city is breathtakingly beautiful from the air |
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| The mountains seem endless and I check my watch again. I
think we must be near to landing but there is little sign of civilisation below.
Then suddenly, without warning, we are out of the snow-capped peaks and
descending towards Vancouver. A cluster of skyscrapers mark the downtown area
and point the way to the beautiful
Stanley Park. Surrounded by water on three sides, the downtown peninsula of
Canada's third largest city is breathtakingly beautiful from the air. |
Stanley Park
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| I head first to the 1,000 acre Stanley Park but not
without a little detour along the way. When I first visited Vancouver in 1995
the area between the park and the shopping district was a random collection of
office blocks and run-down concrete buildings. |
Things have changed radically here. Now known as Coal Harbour it is one of the
most desirable places to live. Huge apartment blocks have replaced the old
worn-out buildings, and I decide to take a leisurely detour to look at the
gardens and water features that surround each one. At the corner of Alberni and
Broughton an example of Dale Chihuly's glass work can be seen. Further north, at
Georgia and Broughton, an unusual office block has been converted into stylish
apartments. It is a suspended cube which was designed to withstand earthquakes
by hanging the building from a central concrete pillar. But don't worry,
Vancouver only experiences minor earth tremors which you are unlikely to notice.
On reaching Stanley Park
some years ago the seawall walk around the edge of the park was divided into
lanes one for pedestrians, the other for cyclists and rollerbladers.
Leisure is taken seriously here and no matter the time of day there are always
experts and amateurs navigating their way along the seawall on wheels.
After navigating the seawall an air of calm descends as I walk into the interior
of the park. Huge cedar trees invite you to look up at their great height. I am
looking for the Hollow Tree - a giant tree that was once photographed with a car
parked in its centre. But I soon become enchanted by the criss-cross of trails
that take me deeper into the woods and decide to wander wherever they lead me.
At Lost Lagoon I stop for a breather on one of the many benches throughout the
park. Groups of ducks and swans are enjoying the midday sun. Suddenly, from
behind my bench, out pops a racoon. It stops and looks at me for a moment then
makes a barely audible noise. A baby racoon scurries out of the bushes to join
its mother and the two scamper off down the path.
I could spend the whole day here watching the wildlife and reading the
inscriptions on the benches. They are mainly devoted to loved ones who enjoyed
Stanley Park as locals or visitors. But it is the one dedicated to the 'Secret
Service Agent' that intrigues me most. However, there is so much more to see in
Vancouver that I decide to leave the rest of the park its lakes, restaurants,
aquarium, totem poles, cricket ground and beaches to another day. |
Robson Street
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In the evening I wander along
Robson Street, the main
shopping street. There are the usual high street names here as well as many
smaller shops. But I'm not here for the shopping. I find myself a window seat in
a coffee shop and join in another of Vancouver's great pastimes: people
watching. At any time of day you will always find people taking time out to
enjoy a coffee and just watch the world go by. Judging by the crowds on Robson
Street, most of the world is going by this evening. The evenings are pleasant
enough for an after-dinner stroll .
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Granville Island
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The next day I take a leisurely walk down to the end of
Hornby Street and after a short ride on an
Aqua Bus (small
rainbow-coloured pedestrian ferries), arrive at
Granville Island.
Originally made from the mud dredged out of nearby
False Creek, Granville
Island is home to the prestigious Emily Carr Art Institute, craft shops, art
galleries, an indoor market and wait for it a cement works. A whole day can
be spent here just wandering around the shops and galleries, admiring the
beautiful work on display. In the indoor market there is a choice of food from
around the world. I can't resist trying one of the huge muffins with my coffee
the only problem is how to choose between all the tempting flavours!
Outside I sit on a bench and watch yachts, boats, and aqua buses travelling up
and down from English Bay
to False Creek. A cement barge arrives to be unloaded. I imagine they need a lot
of cement here. In the distance I can see the edge of Stanley Park and, rising
up behind it, the ski resort of Grouse Mountain my next stop. But first I
wander to the end of the island, past the art school where I have been told
there are some floating houses. I'm not really sure if these are boats or
houses. They certainly look permanent, with gardens, washing lines and satellite
dishes. But they are definitely floating in the water. These are permanent
homes, at the end of one of Vancouver's busiest tourist spots. I feel like I'm
intruding so I leave to begin my ascent up Grouse Mountain. |
Grouse Mountain
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On the ferry, known as the seabus, which takes me across
the Burrard Inlet to North Vancouver, I chat to a group of Americans and
discover they are also planning to go up the mountain. Why don't you join us?
they ask. It should only take about an hour or so to get to the top. An hour!
I thought it was a quick ten-minute cable car ride. But that's not the way they
are going up.
I can join them and take the
Grouse Grind, a gruelling 2km walk up to the top, often described as
nature's Stairmaster. Or take the Grouse Mountain Skyride the easy option.
This turns out to be the best choice because the views from the cable car are
spectacular. The skies are clear today so it is possible to see right across to
Vancouver Island. Below the cars seem like ants on the Lions Gate Bridge which
rises majestically out of Stanley Park and takes traffic across to West
Vancouver and onto the Transcanada Highway.
It's a bit of a shock arriving at the top. Below the weather was mild and sunny.
Here it is cold and sunny and there is snow! Nearly everyone is wandering
around carrying skis or snowboards. Small children weave in and out between the
crowds, some still on their skis, showing no fear. On the ice rink a mix of
beginners and the slightly more practised wobble their way around. I queue up
for the sleigh ride but I'm disappointed to see that it is pulled by a large
tractor on treads rather than Rudolph's friends. However, it does take you to
the far end of the resort, where the ski-lifts start and where you can see right
across to Mount Baker, in Washington State. It is a magnificent sight, appearing
to rise up out of nowhere. I'm told it's still considered an active volcano,
although it is sleeping right now and has been since the mid 1800s.
Scattered around the resort are huge wooden carvings of birds, people and
animals. In the summer the Lumberjack Show gives visitors a chance to see how
wood can be carved with just a chainsaw. At this time the two resident grizzly
bears also come out of hibernation. Grinder and Coola are orphan bears who were
brought to the mountain in 2001. They are part of an ongoing observation
experiment to learn more about grizzlies. The aim of the project is to be able
to save orphan bears and return them to the wild. There is also a pack of grey
wolves here, who used to be film stars, but have since retired. |
Hollywood North
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| After travelling back down to downtown, I am puzzled by
the large orange arrows that seem to have appeared on street signs everywhere.
Curious, I follow one and soon come across huge trucks and miles and miles of
arm-sized cable. Vancouver is also known as Hollywood North. Many film-makers
are coming here to use the city as a substitute New York or L.A. I-Robot and
Catwoman were both filmed here, so it is not unusual to spot movie stars
wandering through the shops. |
Vancouver Art Gallery
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After shopping and snow I feel I need to add a little
culture to my itinerary. Previously home to the Law Courts, the
Vancouver Art Gallery
occupies an entire city block between Robson and Georgia. The gallery changes
its exhibitions throughout the year so it is best to check what is on before
visiting. On the top floor is a permanent display of paintings by Emily Carr,
one of Canada's best known female artists. Her stunning paintings of forests,
totem poles and First Nation people are rich in colour and almost seem to be
alive. I love looking at the photographs of her working by her caravan, always
wearing her obligatory hairnet.
On the ground floor, the gallery shop has a gorgeous selection of work by local
artists, as well as a large range of art books. I am drawn to the jewellery
cabinets which house modern as well as more traditional items, to suit most
budgets. The staff here are very friendly and happy to open the cases for you to
take a closer look or just to talk about the art. |
Vancouver Library
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| With my purse feeling rather lighter, I decide to get away
from the shops for some quiet contemplation. The
Vancouver
Library is a short walk east along Robson Street. Looking very much like the
Roman Coliseum, it is an impressive building with a glass atrium dividing the
library from the adjoining offices. You don't need a library card to wander
around the floors and there are plenty of chairs for you to relax in while you
read. |
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| An older but just as stunning building is the Marine
Building on the corner of Burrard and Pender. Once the tallest office block in
British Colombia, the exterior of this 1920s Art Deco building is decorated with
friezes depicting Neptune and his creatures, interwoven with panels showing West
Coast marine history. Inside the entrance hall continues the nautical theme on
the floor and walls. Wait for an elevator door to open to be treated to the
sight of the impressive wood panelling inside. |
Chinatown
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For more historical buildings I head to
Chinatown in Vancouver. The
magnificent Chinese Gate greets visitors as they step over the threshold into
one of the oldest parts of the city.
It may not be obvious at first glance but the Sam Kee Building on West Pender
Street is the worlds narrowest building. A block on from this is Dr Sun Yat-Sen
Chinese Garden. This is an oasis of calm and tranquility away from the busy
streets outside. A guided tour is included which is well worth waiting for. The
guides are very knowledgeable about the history of the garden and its creation. |
Vancouver has something for everyone
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It's time to leave Vancouver but not before one last
coffee, slowly savoured while watching the sun set over the mountains. I feel
like I have come home and I'm very sad to be leaving. I will be making plans to
return soon, as there are many more things to see and do in this wonderful city.
Vancouver has something for everyone: beaches, skiing, galleries, shops,
gardens, festivals, great food and friendly people. As they boast here One day
in January I went scuba diving in the morning and skiing in the afternoon.
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